Tuesday March 12, 2013 HONIARA, GUADALCANAL, Solomon Islands
Well today is a bonus to make up for our 2 lost islands in the Solomons (Utupua and Santa Ana due to Cyclone Sandra which sent us scurrying North as fast as we could go to get out of Sandra's path - we did have lots of rain (and I mean LOTS) as well as rough seas and many folks taking sea sickness prevention medication or being sea sick! But as a result today we get to go to the capital city of the Solomon islands, HONIARA, on the northwest coast of the island of Guadalcanal since we are now 1 day ahead of schedule. From 1952 Honiara became the new capital of the British Protectorate of the Solomon Islands and the island started to grow after this.
However, in the late 1990's Honiara has suffered a turbulent history of ethnic violence and political unrest, scarred by rioting. In June 2000 a coup attempt resulted in violent rebellions and flighting between the Guadalcanal natives (Istabu Freedom Movement IFM) and the Malays (Malaita Eagle Force MEF). The Australian Military and police units moved in to Guadalcanal in July 2003 to restore order. There was another brief political uprising in 2006 but at the present time is looking optimistically towards the future. One of the big issues is due to traditional land ownership (more customs). As Honiara grows more people come from elsewhere and squat on land owned by the traditional Guadi people - which they do not like at all. Just another example of why we on the ship have been so carefully instructed just exactly where we can and cannot walk whenever we are taken ashore.
WWII HISTORY -- This island played a massive part in WWII and the first major offensive by the Allies against Japan took place on Guadalcanal from August 7, 1942 to February 9, 1943. After the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour on Dec 7, 1941 the Japanese had advanced towards the South Pacific threatening the Allies' South Pacific ferry route connecting Australia and the USA. The Japanese invaded Guadalcanal in July 1942, had 8,400 men on the island by August with an airfield at Lunga Point, and the island became a major Japanese stronghold due to its' proximity to Australia. When you cruise around these islands you realise very quickly how close they all are to Australia's Northern Coastline.
Starting August 7, 1942 the US Marines landed on the Guadalcanal's Northern Beaches and over the next 3 months the Marines secured the airfield and a 6 mile stretch of beach. In October a USA Army unit arrived and together they continued pushing the Japanese further out. In the 4 day Battle of Guadalcanal in November the US Navy foiled Japan's Tokyo Express, which involved a reinforcement of the Japanese troops overnight onto the island by supply laden destroyers, and only 4,000 of the 10,000 Japanese Troops reached land.
After this battle the USA pushed on thrashing through the jungle in an effort to take Mount Austen facing heavy fire from the Japanese Troops. On January 1 & 2, 1943 the USA succeeded in securing most of the Gifu area and the West slopes of Mt Austen.
Our arrival into Honiara was unexpected and we were thrilled to be greeted by a large dancing group on the dock in their traditional thongs, banana leaves and skin decorations playing the huge drums, extra long pan pipes and dancers playing the smaller pan pipes - they played for an hour in the light rain and were wonderful to listen to, and watch, from the ship as we waited to be cleared by customs and immigration.
Then we all disembarked and loaded into small mini buses to tour the major sites in Honiara. This included the USA Memorial site, followed by the Japanese Memorial site a couple of hills away where it started to rain. We stopped at Bloody Ridge where the fighting was stalled for a long while, and were shown the fox holes still quite obvious there although they are now filled with long grass. The hills and fields were lush and green, and we could hear children playing and shouting all over - it is said that many Solomon Island Families have 8 children! Heading back to the ship we hit a traffic jam with an amazing number of mini vans on the road!
After lunch we had a shuttle service taking us back into town where we visited a wonderful arts and crafts centre with a wonderful large central building similar in my mind to a New Zealand marae with beautiful carved pillars. Here there was another wonderful local group playing - you guessed it - fabulous huge drums and pan pipes! As soon as we arrived the skies opened and rain poured down again. The market itself had several booths (we paddled in the puddles from one to another) with amazing, and I mean truly beautiful carvings and decorated with the pieces of nautilus shell that they are known for - oh I could have spent thousands here no problem at all!
Back onboard Orion we enjoyed afternoon tea - each afternoon at 4pm there is tea and small sandwiches & cakes in the front of the ship Galaxy Lounge and they play Aussie Trivia (with some questions about the Orion ship or lectures too) in teams (Cathy who also sings each night with Terry in the Leda Lounge asks all the questions). We don't join in the trivia teams but if we're in the lounge enjoying tea or coffee we enjoy listening to the questions and the hilarity at various answers!
Before dinner as always we had our cocktail watching the slide show prepared each day by the Expedition Team - it is such a great way to end each day and start the evening! Tomorrow we are off to Marovo Lagoon, Solomon Islands - a busy day with craft market, snorkelling & swimming, shark feeding and a village cultural visit - we need a good night's sleep!
Cheers ..... Jan Umbach
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