20150409 INDIA -- THANJAVAUR TO DELHI

Thursday April 9, 2015 THANJAVAUR to MADURAI (185km/4 to 5 hours) SANGAM HOTEL (2 nights) 
9 Chaiitra (roughly equivalent to April 9) is the 9th day of the Hindu month Chaitra and a HINDU Holy day.


On Tuesday afternoon we arrived in Thanjavaur - the focal point of TAMIL learning & culture and was the Royal City of the Cholas, Nayaks and Marathas, and was also the original home of Dravidian art and architecture. On arrival we visited the spectacular Brihadeshwara Temple of the Chola Dynasty and and saw the gigantic 8.8 metre high Lingam cut from a monolithic rock. In the inner shrine of the Temple is is a huge Nandi Bull, the second largest in the country.

Yesterday after returning from Srirangam and Trichy, we visited the grand, but dilapidated, Tanjore Palace & Museum which housed an art gallery & full of bronze sculptures from the last 11 centuries, a library, a hall of music, and the audience hall. Lots to see on display here including relics of Royalty, clothes, hunting weapons, and head gear. Also in Thanjavaur are 2 great Choka temples: Temple of Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavatesvara Temple.


There was so much to see and learn about in Thanjavaur, but today we drive South to the city of Madurai to spend 2 nights at the SANGAM hotel, and to continue our adventures. We ate breakfast with fresh hot brewed coffee, cornflakes with fresh yoghurt, pineapple and papaya with fresh lime juice, toast and hard boiled eggs, vegetable masala omelette, baked beans and an Indian donut - must get the name of that! We were checked out and on the road by 8am and a couple of hours of crazy busy city traffic before the road quietened down just a little and we could see the green expanses of the rural areas around us. It was a beautiful blue sunny sky after the cloudy day yesterday with a rainbow and a few drops of rain. Driver Seji from Kerala greets every minute of every day with a huge smile - Seji told us we would be in Madurai by 3pm. After 45 minutes we passed huge fields of sugar cane all being harvested by hand, we also saw many trucks on the road loaded with massive crops of cut sugar cane - overflowing the trucks on each side and piled about 30 feet high. We stopped to buy freshly harvested and roasted cashew nuts being sold by beautiful ladies in their colourful saris at the side of the road - 150 rupees, about $3 for 250 gms. A little later there was a tiny lady in her beautiful sari sitting on the side of the road watching her herd of 10 or 15 small goats browsing on the grass at the side of the highway.


By 945am we were through Pudokkaltai which is a large rural town centre, frantically busy with the black and yellow motorised rickshaws everywhere racing around the streets, folks selling everything, motorbikes & scooters every which way, small coffee stands with everyone sharing a morning coffee and visit, and food stands with a couple of hot plates and steaming bowls with the cook making and serving various breakfast meals including small pancakes and large paper thin dhosa (Southern India rice pancake). Just 105km to Madurai - but not to worry we have things to see along the way!


As we pull into the CHETTINAD area in Tamil Nadu State before 11, we see more huge rocks sitting out in the middle of the plain with a sandstone fort and temple on top THIRUMAYAN FORT - they are so spectacular because they stand out so dramatically for miles. This area was famous in the19th & 20th centuries when many residents emigrated to Burma and Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and by 2010 only 74 of the original 96 towns remained, including the principal towns of Karaikudi and Devakotta. Chettinad was home to the Nattukottai Chettiars - a prosperous 
banking & business community, well known for 18th and 19th century mansions embellished with marble from Italy, chandeliers and teakwood from Burma, crockery from Indonesia and crystal from Europe - so you can get a sense of just how impressive the homes in this area were, and some still are, today. Construction materials were mostly imported from East Asia and Europe. There is no real water or rainfall in this area, and water reservoirs were set up to contain water supplies, but over time residents have been forced to leave the area because of the lack of water due to no rain.


The bankers and traders travelled far and wide from Karaikudi to set up their business ventures exporting spices and textiles over 100 years ago and importing other materials and building huge homes and palaces in this area. The belief system Shaivism prominent mercantile Vaishy caste in South India - a community with rich cultural heritage known for philanthropy building temples and schools, and maintaining them through India and Asia. They travelled by boat, train and foot to set up businesses. Historically an itinerant community of merchants who claimed Chettinad as their home. They may have become maritime traders as long ago as the 8th century and were definitely trading in salt by the 7th century. By the 18th century, along with European colonialism, they became money lenders and bankers. Today CHETTI (derives from a Sanskrit word meaning wealth) refers to other mercantile castes in India. At one point in time one third of all rice paddies in Burma belonged to Chettinad traders and bankers. Today the Chetti imprint is on many industries from manufacturing to fertilizer to banking and films.


In Karaikudi today, our first stop at the small SRI MAHALAKSHMI hand weaving looms - where still today beautiful pure cotton saris are made - from white cotton being purchased (not grown in this area) dyed by both natural and chemical processes, then loomed and woven. The ladies and men were sitting on the cold rock floor (which would be good to keep them cool) with holes cut out for the floor paddles for their looms and their feet go up and down non stop as their hands send the coloured cotton looms backwards and forwards for each colour to weave the fine cotton fabric and in various patterns. The finished product is stunning and in so many colours. The 5.5 metre lengths for saris range from 1500 rupees ($30 ) to over 3000 rupees. SRI MAHALAKSHMI factory also had heavier cotton table cloths, bed spreads (from 2,000 rupees) for sale - some of them woven by other Chetti factories and all by hand. This was so interesting to see. The owners and their daughter explained everything to us, V. Krishnaveni Venkatraman served us (email: smhwe.kkn@gmail.com )


Next stop was for lunch at a 110 year old Palace in the Chetti town of DEVAKOTTA. Today it is a delightful hotel called CHIDAMBARA VILLAS and is a throwback to the golden era of the wealthy Chettiars. It celebrates the rich culture and the sumptuous lifestyle they enjoyed before the effects of the world depression caused havoc everywhere around the world. The 25 rooms here are delightful and set on 2 floors overlooking the lush foliage around the swimming pool. The furniture is beautiful teak and some rooms even have an antique overhead fan which you pull by rope backwards and forwards as you lie on your bed (but yes, all the rooms do have air conditioning!). The ground floor is a maze of rooms to rest and relax, kitchens, dancing room, and 2 dining rooms. The Manager - AVUNLEV , (tel: 96 26 20 7933) is in his first year at the Chidambara Villas, worked for many years in the cruise industry and sailed Alaska for 5 years so was eager to talk to us about Vancouver.


Lunch was amazing - the traditional South India Specialty served on real plantain leaves - and about 12 different piles of chutneys and sauces, rice, served by waiters in their traditional mundu-veshti, individually onto our "plate" along with pewter glasses of ice cold water, and another filled with hot soup - all vegetarian except for one small whole fish. Traditionally everyone eats with the fingers on their right hand - I ate with a fork! The other 6 guests were Indian origin, now on vacation from Virginia USA, and they were enjoying the food and experience as much as we did. It was very special and we loved every minute and mouthful. The wash stations for cleansing your hands before and after the meal are located at the end of the dining room. The tables for 2 or 3 were set in two rows in the narrow room facing each other - great for conversation and enjoying the experience.


We were back on the road by 1pm and onward to Madurai. Driver Seji is so delightful and decided to take us to the flower market on the way into the city. Just a short but delightful stop. Over 100 vendors selling huge bags of flower petals and flower heads - no stalks. The most common by far being the tiny fragrant white? and the golden marigolds, along with some red and pink roses and other varieties. All the flowers were sold by weight with each vendor holding a scale with a weight in one pan and the flower petals/heads in the other pan until they balanced. It was so enjoyable to walk down amidst the noise and frantic activities of the buyers and sellers - some ladies sitting making the small strings of flowers for people to buy ready made and massive 5 to 6 feet tall version readily available for the temples (I had to ask what the big ones were for!).


We arrived right on time at the SANGAM HOTEL, Madurai where we were greeted so warmly by the Marketing & Operations Manager K. SUNDARAMOORTHY and his staff with cold juice, wet cold face towels to freshen up and long necklaces of fragrant sandal wood beads around our neck - a local tradition. Then we were shown to our rooms, and were soon settled in to a large room with King size bed, teak furniture for luggage, coffee making supplies, and lots of work counter for computers, phones Ipads and recharge plug. We always travel with a long extension cord and multiway plug since one outlet just never does the job for the number of things to be recharged every day . The room was very cold and felt damp - we turned up (warmer) the AC and by the next morning it had warmed up some but still felt damp. We sat in our PJ's and sweater while we relaxed and worked in order to feel a little warm!


There is a huge construction effort going on - a new tower addition right next door for this same hotel and construction in the gardens outside our window to build the iron framework for a covered walkway between the hotel towers - new one due to open in 2016. The bar is in a building off the gardens but again completely dark with no windows - must be a popular design in India! There is a nice pool, reasonably large and shaped (I'm not keen on old fashioned square and rectangular pools) with plastic chairs, grass and flowering shrubs and trees - so a nice area to relax in - but very hot with no shade. The dining room has one section with long tables for large groups, as well as tables for 2 and 4 set around three sides of a water feature with walkways across it and green plants and shrubs, so a pleasant inside area with air conditioning that feels like you are in a garden.


We ate at 7 (most hotels do breakfast 7 to 9am and dinner 7 to 10pm) and not being very hungry shared a delicious lightly spiced Butter chicken dish with a plain nan bread and a paratha (both unleavened breads) - hot and tasty! The Manager came over while we were at dinner to check that everything was all OK. We were in bed by 9pm to sleep well and be refreshed and ready for tomorrow's adventures!!



Friday April 10, 2015 MADURAI - SANGRAM MADURAI HOTEL 
Today the plan is for Seji to pick us up at 9am after breakfast, and to tour Madurai - the city sits on the banks of the Vaigai river - as early as 550 AD Madurai was an important cultural and commercial centre. First stop is the Meenakshi Temple complex housing 14 magnificent Gopurams (towers) including two golden gopurams for the main deities. At the Tamukkam Palace we visit the Ghandi Memorial Museum which houses the history and relics from the Freedom Movement. Then its off to the Koodal Azhagar Temple which is one of the 108 temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu and contains three separate altars featuring Vishnu in standing, sitting and reclining postures.


I was catching up on my blog by 3am while Terry hogged the huge bed and snored soundly! When he woke at 5 we shared our thoughts for yesterday and CHETTINAD and did a little more research on the area while enjoying an in room coffee. The coffee in the hotel rooms is always instant, but in the restaurants it is freshly brewed although so far we haven't had any restaurant serving a latte or cappuccino which I would love! This morning at 8am we were the only folks in the restaurant and Terry had his omelette, and of course between us we enjoyed fresh black coffee, lemon muffin, hard boiled eggs, whole wheat toast and papaya and pineapple with banana.


During breakfast we chatted to the 3 waiters about what we were going to do today and asked them about the flowers we had seen at the flower market yesterday. The wonderful smelling white Jasmine (Maligai) is available all year around and costs about 25 rupees (50cents) for a string lei which is the welcome flower of the Madurai culture and given to guests when they arrive in the hotel (we were given sandalwood round bead necklace, an even bigger honour). The Talambu is the other white flower (available Jan-April and Sep-November) and they make strings of these to take to the Temples. The flowers grow on bushes and trees and are grown outside the city in the villages - not in greenhouses or under cover.


Driver Seji picked us up at 9am and we were off for our day of adventure! The drive was as ever like dodgem cars through the city of 2.5 million population (from the 2001 census) with 70% Hindu, 15% muslim and 15% Christian. The name Madurai comes from the word madi which means nectar from Shiva. The river VAIGAI runs through Madurai - Pavati & Shiva were married in Madurai The Tamil language originated here, so this is an important city in Tamil history & culture. There is a big difference between the North & South of India - the North is considered inhabited by the migration from the North (Persians, Turkey etc) and are called Aryans. The South is the Travidean and Tamils who consider themselves pure Indians. When the north was invaded many of the original Indians moved south to avoid being taken over by the invaders.


Madurai is considered to be "Athens of the East" and Mahatma Gandhi (Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi) came to Madurai 5 times and fought for all Hindus to be able to get into the temples and shrines, which he eventually accomplished. Prior to Ghandi the "untouchables" caste were not allowed into the temples & shrines. The beloved Gandhi was assassinated on January 30, 1948 and there was a 5 mile procession of mourners. More later today when we visit the Gandhi Freedom Museum.


India was first known as BHARAT MATHA (Bharat meaning Unity/Diversity and Matha meaning Mother). Next it was known as HINDUSTAN, then later INDUSTAN. The British shortened INDUSTAN to India to make it easier for themselves. Many of the names today in India were shortened by the British, so it is quite normal when looking on maps today for place names finding something similar but different! Confusing for us travellers!


Madurai area is also famous for its' granite quarries, semi-precious stones, cotton, jasmine flowers which are exported to Singapore, Malaysia, Dubai and also to France for Jasmine oil for the French perfumes. Being so far South on the Indian continent, Madurai is close to the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea and so is known for its excellent sea food. You can also get custom tailoring made in Madurai - delivered to your hotel in one hour after you have been measured, and selected your fabric and clothing style! We did see some beautiful Indian silks later in such a store and I was very tempted! About 2500 rupees ($50) for a pure silk tunic with buttons down the front and high collar from shoulders to my knees.


We arrived in one piece with no scratches, and met our excellent Guide PRABU (V.S. Nagendra Prabu ( Guide #80 for Tamil Nadu Tourism) who would be guiding us today. PRABU is a licensed guide and spent 3 years plus 1 additional year of specialty to become a guide. He was a teacher for 8 years before changing to a guide, and also is a classical dancer and choreographer and dance teacher. He even showed us classical dance moves BHARATA NATHYAM and how they related to the National items of India - lotus flower, bird -peacock, animal - tiger, fruit -mango and tree - banyan and other moves - boy what a talented guy. His English, history & cultural knowledge and guiding skills were excellent.

Our meeting spot was at the THIRUMALAI NAYAKKAR PALACE - a protected archeological monument - I loved this place! It was 10 rupees for Indian adults to enter, 50 rupees for Foreign adults to enter, and 30 rupees for a camera - have I mentioned that we have to pay at most temples & sites that we go to take in our camera! This grand Palace is used a lot for Bollywood movies from Delhi, Kollywood movies from Chennai, and Tollywood movies - from Kerala! These productions use the local tailoring facilities to make the clothing required and the Palace for the sets for the movies! There is a big University in Madurai, a domestic airport, and a new International airport opened here about 2 years ago.

Every evening there is a sound and light show here inside the temple - well I think it's just that lights are switched on - and the story of the Palace and history of events is on the loud speakers at 645pm in English and the same event later in local Tamil language. I guess they know we white folks don't like being on the streets late at night and also go to bed early!


The Thirumalai Nyakkar Palace was erected in 1636 by King Thirumalai (Raja Raja Thirumalai), a King of Madurai's Nayaka Dynasty who ruled the Nayaks from 1623-1659. He was a great patron of art & architecture and built the Palace with the help of an Italian architect. There are many huge and splendid pillars with ceilings painted with lotus flowers and in the Harem room a pattern that looks like a Persian carpet. The blue ceiling paintings are the influence from the Italian architect. There is a BOOJA room which was the Prior (small chapel), the WASTHU similar to what is called feng shui today There is a large gold throne of King Maharaja in the Justice Hall with red velvet cushions, a replica of the original which is the Prince Albert Hall UK - another item stolen from India by the British we were informed. There is no love lost in India for the British and the years they ruled by slavery and tyranny (calling Indians "dogs") starting in 1636? with the East India Company. Artists and designers come almost daily to this palace to create prints and fabrics today by copying these patterns. On top of the pillars is a mythical creature comprised of many different real animals and emblems representing the three dynasties - Cheras, Cholas & Pandya. The statues include the bow and arrow emblem for the Cheras from Kerala, the tiger emblem of the Cholas, and the fish for the Pandya. The rooms in the Palace included a harem, courtyard, dancing room, etc. The Palace was 300 metres by 220 metres long and the inside was built with granite from the area, while the outside was bricks and stone. Unfortunately the grandson, of the man who built the Palace, destroyed a large portion of the Palace removing much of the wood and jewelled stones to build his own Palace in Tiruchirapalli. The English Lord Napier , Governor General of Madras, partially restored the Palace in 1866-72 and more restoration has taken place several years ago, so today we can see how impressive this Palace must have been. The Palace was originally 4 times bigger than what we see today. After throughly enjoying walking around, taking photos of the Palace and the small children on a school visit here, young teenage girls sitting inside enjoying the Palace as much as we did - it was time to head to the Meenakshi Temple. 


First was the process of getting there through the busy city traffic and narrow streets - driver Seji has my congrats for managing to get there safely. Then buying a goti (sarong) to cover the legs and shoulders on one of the ladies who only had on a short dress and transparent wraps which are not acceptable in the Meenakshi Temple. On the street leading to the temple was a store selling fabrics, sarees annd goti and she managed to buy a plain cream one with a narrow border for 100 rupees (about $2) - we also saw one white family in the Meenakshi temple also wearing this same goti to cover their legs since they had on shorts. Afterwards we had to take off shoes and put them in a locker receiving a ticket to pick them up later - a free service, you just tip 30 rupees about 75 cents. Cameras also had to be left here in a closed locker and I was given the check for this as well. No photos from a camera inside the Meenakshi temple - however, I then paid 50 rupees (about $1) to take photos with my Iphone! Iphone photos are allowed but not camera photos and of course the Iphone takes crappy photos especially in the variable lighting conditions in the temple! Never mind - shut up and pay the money. Then we had to go through tight security to get into to the temple - body search by a lady for the ladies, and by a men for the men. Also a look through every single item in our small shoulder bags. We had been told that no camera batteries were allowed inside - well this is what Terry had happen to him...... they took his spare hearing aid batteries, his pouch for his hearing aids with 2 spare batteries, his keychain with a tiny one inch flashlight on it with a battery (same tiny battery as in hearing aids), 1 disposable plastic razor, and his small zip lock bag with the cord that goes around his neck for his hearing aids - and they were trying to decide whether to also take his small wallet full of credit cards - by now Terry had smoke coming out of his ears and was ready to forget the Meenakshi Temple and at the point of turning back! While this was going on one of the ladies was being told she couldn't take her phone into the Temple - she said if the phone doesn't go in then neither do I!! Followed by the man taking my 50 rupees for the Iphone who "had no change" for my 100 rupees note! Eventually we were all inside!!


In about 10 days time there will be a massive Festival here - remember me saying:    9 Chaiitra (roughly equivalent to April 9) is the 9th day of the Hindu month Chaitra and a HINDU Holy day. 

Every day 20,000 people visit the MEENAKSHI Temple, and today we were there with the 19,996 Indians. Well apparently the CHIATRA Festival will be huge here with dancers, elephants, music and with millions expected to come and participate both inside the Temple and outside on the streets (with big projection screens of the activities inside the temple). Inside they are in the process of constructing huge sun shelters in an area hundreds of feet long by at least 100+ feet wide - I would not want to be here next week at the Festival with all those people in this hot sun!! As we entered the courtyard there were young couples pouring small amounts of milk on the cobra statues at the bottom of a large neem (tree) which pollinates itself it is both male and female. The couples who are wishing to have babies must fast for 4 days and then come and offer milk to the cobra statues NARGAR under the neem tree.


It was a very large, busy and interesting Temple. The MEENAKshi temple has 1511 statues and is 48 metres high - it is constructed with high quality copper at the top which is replaced every 12 years, and its' main benefit is that copper reflects lightning. The walls of the courtyard around the Golden Lotus Tank are currently being carefully repainted and will be covered with glass to protect them since they continually get damaged and worn.While exploring the various parts of the temple, we also saw a wedding - happy smiling young couple wearing glorious clothes and flowers and setting up for photos. There were large temple structures with their multicolour sculptures in blue, yellow, red and purple - with a large water reservoir in front. We entered through the North entrance - there are 5 entrances here, one North, South and West and two on the East side (for Shiva and Pavarti) standing for sky, land, water, air and fire. There are 1008 oil lamps at the East entrance which added together equal 9, and the number 9 is significant for Hindus.


Construction started in 3rd century BC and was completed in 16-18th centuries, but historically it is believed to have 2500 years of history. Our tour went through the Shiva shrine, the Meenakshi shrine, the Wedding hall, the Golden Lotus tank and the Thousand pillars Hall which actually has 984 pillars inside and 16 pillars outside. There was one hall which is open each year just for a 10 day festival and the beautiful ceiling is made entirely of narrow arched teak beams, the teak was all imported from Burma. I loved the statue of Saraswati, the musical Goddess, playing the sitar. What did surprise me was when it hit 1pm and there was loud music in the courtyard (sounded almost like jazz) and our guide PRABU told us that it was lunchtime so music is played for the visitors. There were sections where it was like a bazaar with all sorts of statues, clothes and food items for sale to the public - it felt like a street market inside the Temple grounds!


Back outside the MEENAKSHI Temple we picked up shoes and cameras, there were armed guards as we exited the temple, holding a machine gun - I do think they are watching for terrorists these days. Then we crossed the street (no vehicles allowed on this street) and went into a 3 storey store with everything you might want for sale - sarees, statues, pashminas, shirts. We just climbed to the roof where there is supposed to be a great view of the MEENAKSHI Temple - I had to climb on a rickety wooden crate to see it and I actually think the photo of me unsteady on the crate was better than the photo of the MEENAKSHI Temple! We said Goodbye to PRABU, paid our gratuities and headed back to the SANGAM Hotel which was a 2 minute ride - our hotel was just around the corner!

It was a relaxing couple of hours in the room before dinner which starts at 7pm most days, rice, veggies, curry and hot paratha which I love. I actually ordered my first glass of wine in India - it was Indian red wine (350 rupees about $7) and to my taste was dreadful - very sweet - Terry drank it! Tomorrow morning we depart at 730am for Thekkaddy, very little time required to pack, so a good night's sleep was in order.



Saturday April 11, 2015 MADURAI TO THEKKADDY (138km / 4 hours) 
Note: best hotels in Madurai - 5 star -HERITAGE, DAJ, PONDIAN
The GRT and SANGAM are 3 star in our opinion.

The plan for today is a fairly lengthy ride, in fact we will be leaving at 730am to get an early start. Then when we arrive in Thekkaddy we head out for a boat ride on the unique aquatic ecosystem of Periyar Lake which was formed in 1985 by the construction of a dam across the Mullaperiyar River. The boat cruise is considered the perfect way to relax and enjoy seeing the small islets in Lake Periyar and look for the wildlife in the reserve. So no temples or Palaces today, in fact no more temples in South India and only 1 temple in the entire North India portion of our tour!


We were woken at midnight by a phone call (which hung up) then a second phone call at 3am for another agent in our office - not my client! So I read for awhile and then later tried to get emails but the WIFI is crazy this morning and essentially impossible to download any email. We were eating breakfast by 630am - the dining room had started early for another group of 14 elderly mid-70's American tourists travelling with OAT Overseas Adventure Tours. They have
been at almost every hotel for the same mights as us - I think that the Southern India Tour is pretty much the same circuit for most tours.


We were introduced to a new driver today - SELVA who has worked for Southern Trails (they have 2,000 drivers in the South!) based in Madurai and Chennai for the last 15 years - SELVA lives in Madurai. (selvam6781@gmail.com) During the next several days we learned that the monthly salary of a driver (after 15 years with the company) is 8,000 rupees for a full 30 work day month (about $160). No minimum salary laws in India. Southern Trails drive Europeans only, no domestic Indians, The season is November through end of March so they work every day they can - no work or pay for them in the off season. They are very dependent on tips to augment their salary.


So Terry and I headed off with Selva, in our TOYOTA INNOVA, who is quite delightful, with pretty good English (think of the Indian Call centres that you talk to) and more than willing to answer questions, offer information, and stop for any photos that you might wish to take - and also a good driver which is rather essential on the roads here in India as you may have surmised from my travel journal of every day here over the last 7 days so far. SELVA only drives the tours in Southern India and at some point during our time together, SELVA told me it's dangerous on the roads in the North - crazy drivers and too much traffic! Selva is proud of Madurai and loves his country - he said that every January 15 is a famous festival in Madurai and all over the state of TAMIL NADU, the PUNGAL Festival. Selva also told me that December 25 and January 1 are famous in KERALA State (which is 70% Christian, 25% Hindu and 5% Muslim). I asked him if those dates were for Christmas and New Year and he said Yes which did make me chuckle! (Its hartd to know what the answer is as they shake their heads side to side and say yes, instead of nodding their head up and down). Selvan also suggested that next time that we visit South India, that when we head South from Pondicherry to Madurai we take in the NADARAJA Temple in the town of CIDAMABARAM (90 minutes from Pondicherry) and a further 60 minutes later the GAKJIGODASOLADUREAM Village Temple. He was about to give me more Temples to visit but I told him I thought that was enough already! (I must check out the spelling of these!)


We talked about water and it is free for everyone. In Madurai there is salt water delivered by pipes to the homes, good for cooking and bathing. The fresh water comes in a big bowser (tank) every 4 days - and we passed this operation, with men lining up for the water and carrying home large jugs on their shoulders. In Africa it's mostly women that we see doing this function. The plastic jugs are shaped like ceramic jugs, AND PAINTED IN COLOURS QUITE OFTEN.


The drive today was stunning - the best scenery since we arrived in Chennai last Sunday evening. We were almost immediately into beautiful rural countryside with huge green rice paddies, palm trees, banana & papaya orchards, huge coconut plantations, goats, cows and sandstone or granite mountains on the horizon - these are the mountains known as the Cardamom Hills / Periyar Hills / Thekaddy Hills / Kumily Hills - take your choice! There were 3 houses in between rice paddies and amidst that beautiful peaceful green scene these houses were painted bright yellow with red lettering advertising a silk company -pretty garish!


In the small town of USILAMPATTI we were held up on a narrow street for quite a long time and when we eventually made our way through there were a couple of hundred ladies carrying what looked like grass on their heads - all walking down the street in a procession (the men were at the front of the procession - everyone excited) wearing beautiful sarees of every colour and if I understood correctly this was to celebrate the crop of the Mulapari vegetable and they were all heading to the Maryama Temple to give thanks for the crop. Shortly after we stopped for photos of ladies picking the jasmine flowers from a flower farm - obviously this is where the jasmine are picked and sent in to Madurai to be sold at the flower markets that we visited 2 days ago. We also passed a cotton plantation, and multiple brick farms with the ovens smoking and mounds of red brick piles.


By 9am we drove through ANDIPITI and saw lots of the large windmills in a windmill farm just like you see in Palm Springs and other California locations. As we came close to the town of THENI the mountains were getting closer and more dramatic - stunning vistas. We could see that some were granite and huge quarries where the granite had been sliced away. We have seen beautiful granite everywhere in India. THENI is also famous for its' gold mines - one of our guides told us that Indian women don't like silver, they all want gold! In India they sell gold in 18 and 22 carats which is why it is so much yellower than what we buy in North America, their designs are also much fancier and a lot more filigree than we see at home where most of us prefer a simpler more classical design ( at least I do!).


We had to park the car here and driver Selvam went into the Police Road Station to purchase his permit to enter Kerala. When a vehicle from one State crosses the State line they need to purchase a permit to enter (and price based on the number of days). The car tax driving from Kerala into Tamil Nadu is 700 rupees, driving from Tamil Nadu to Kerala is 2500 rupees ($50). Also I may not have mentioned before but there are road blocks very frequently to pass through - like a block on the left and right hand sides of the road that you have to slow down and wind your way through - this means that the Police can stop you should they wish to. It can be a cat and mouse game since only one vehicle can do this at a time so either you or the vehicle coming towards you has to slow down - who will give way first? Driving is all right hand drive over here and mostly (if not all) manual shift. Apparently being on your cell phone while driving is illegal but everyone is on their cell phone! they just hope there are no police around - and you should see the driver with one hand holding the phone and steering and changing gear with one hand! Scary! Then there are the scooter and motorbike riders - one hand steering and one hand with the cell phone to their ear - how can they even hear anything over the noise of the motorbike and traffic? Almost never saw anyone wearing a helmet the whole time we were in South India. On the back of every bike is another man sitting astride the bike, or a lady in a saree sitting side saddle. The most we saw was 5 on one motorbike - Dad driving with a young toddler in front then another toddler behind followed by Mom with another one behind her!

After passing through THENI we saw more huge coconut plantations - coconut used here for refreshing coconut water drink (stands all along the roads), for coconut meat, and for making copra rope which everyone sells and buys to keep the cows close, as well as for making mats.


While on a trip like this laundry is an important thing to manage especially if you have brought few clothes! In the hotels it's 150 rupees ($3) for pants or shirt, outside the small town hotels locally it would cost 20 rupees (40 cents) for a shirt or saree, or 50 rupees ($1) in the city. Men wear a white shirt and dhoti (wrap around their waste) when going to a wedding or visiting the Temple, otherwise coloured dhoti and shirt, and when they are working they lift the dhoti up from the floor and wrap it at round their waist so that it is knee length.


Passing through the towns of CUMBUM and GUDALUR around 1030am we saw more fruits for sale - green and red grapes and pomegranates. We also had seen vineyards along the way covered with grapes. Climbing up the steep CARDAMOM hills, driving around s bends and switch backs all the way, behind a large bus and loaded truck struggling to gain altitude we passed the4 massive water pipes running straight down the hills to the valley - taking the water from the PERIYAR POWER STATION on the (dammed) PERIYAR lake to the towns in the valley below.


By 11am we arrived in the town of KUMILY across the border into KERALA STATE (the Land of Coconut), known as God's Own Country - and it really has been truly beautiful driving here. The town is a real resort area with quite a few white folks around, and lots of hotels, stores with fruits, spices, candies, clothing, sculptures - the kind of shopping that tourists enjoy. There were many restaurants and hotels, of many shapes and sizes. We pulled into the gated GREENWOODS resort - a drive to the top of the hill through two rows of huge splendid palm trees - arriving at the top there were staff waiting to open car doors, take luggage and welcome us. The grounds are huge and green with grass, trees, bushes and just to the side of the main (unlicensed no alcohol) resort was a tree house high up in the trees! Wooden ladders and a swinging wooden rope bridge at the top to get you into the coffee and tea house - how cool is that? GREENWOOD has everything on offer: a spa, swimming pool, personal saree tying (and demonstration) in the privacy of your room, farm animals to pet, trekking - a great place to stay. The rooms are 4 unit villas, 2 up 2 down - huge rooms, luxury toiletry amenities, complimentary teas and coffee, a huge dressing room and closet and wonderful monsoon shower head,king size bed, flat screen TV, window seat and lounge chair - truly relaxing facilities.


After dropping our bags in our villa we headed out at 1130am for a spice tour at (wait for it)The Spice Farm - this is a 32 acre farm with 19 family members working here. We saw everything growing and learned lots in a short time: pepper vines (white, green, red & black all grow on the same vine, rain is the pollinator and the male and female are on the same stalk, but the different colour peppers are harvested at different times) - black pepper used to be called "Black Gold" and was more valuable than gold - shipped by the East Indian Company to Europe for preserving meat. The most expensive spice now is saffron (flower stamens), second is vanilla beans - if you can wrap the bean around your finger it is fresh if it doesn't bend it's not fresh. Vanilla is hand pollinated here - the humming bird is nature's way of naturally pollinating vanilla. A famous spice we all know is ALLSPICE which is comprised of a mix of cinnamon,cloves, black pepper & Nutmeg. However there is an allspice tree (later name Piment) which I never knew and they grow it here and looks like a pepper - smells wonderful, and the allspice leaves are used for tea. These hills are called CARDAMOM HILLS due to profusion of spices and cardamom here, Ginger, turmeric, Basil Citron (used for tea and Ayurveda massage), lemon grass - used for Thai cooking, tea, oils, and oil lamps, cocoa pods (they hand make chocolate here in KUMILY, PIRI PIRI (or Devil) Chillies (remember the Portuguese were here once), Yams (also known as Taro), nutmeg, cloves, turmeric (good for skin cancer and arthritis). Nutmeg and ginger are harvested twice each year, pepper and cloves are harvested once annually. Every 48 days cardamom is harvested! Green or White tea control cholesterol. Masala Tea made from ginger, fennel, cinnamon, cloves, all spice, and cardamom. There was also the natural sweetener SEVIA (eat a leaf and it truly is sweet). Nutmeg - the outer green layer on the nut is pickled, the middle brown layer is mace (poisonous if a small amount eaten) and the inner nut is the nutmeg we know and grate for masala tea and rice puddings or in the Caribbean on top of rum punch! It was only one hour but we saw and learned a ton - then there was the little store full of spices, teas, and chocolate to buy and take home!

Leaving The Spice Farm we drove through Kumily town and couldn't resist all the stores selling huge amounts of banana chips. We stopped for two minutes - bought 500mg (100R $2) and fortunately didn't take the time to look, taste or buy any of the fruit jellied Halva (?) for sale - everything looked delicious. The bananas were being cut and deep fried right there in the store - that's what you call fresh! It was 1:30pm and we continued past interesting stores, hotels and restaurants (as well as advertising for all sorts of eco activities) for lunch at the THEKKADY Cafe for a tasty lunch with the locals of paratha (hot fresh like roti but swirled not solid) and fragrant spicy veggie Biriyani (90 rupees) - sharing one meal between the two of us is more than we can eat.


Next stop was at the ARANYA NIVAS THEKKADY park entrance where we would be taking our 90 minute afternoon boat ride in the Nature Reserve. You can also go trekking here with Ranger Guides, rafting and even camp (in fixed camps) - the park has wildlife including tigers, elephants, deer, wild boar, a bison like animal and others as well as lots of birds. Lake Periyar was formed when the Periyar River was dammed. There were monkeys as soon as we got out of our vehicle - no doubt looking for easy pickings since they were quickly on top of the tourist vans! Then one dropped to the ground and grabbed an apple out of the leaves at the bottom of a tree - I'm sure he had stashed it there for later! There were tickets to enter the ARANYA NIVAS THEKKADY Park and we had a slow walk down towards the lake which was probably a slow 20 minute walk. At this point there is an Information centre with slides and information on the various animals, and also where you purchase tickets for the boat ride as well as tickets so that you can use your camera to take photos. We have spent many rupees in India in order to use our camera!


As we waited for the 3:30 departure we saw some folks heading off for a short trek with the guides (signs saying unguided trekking is illegal) and our driver Selvam told me that the guides are from the Kerala hill tribes in this area and they did look different featured that most of the Indians we have seen so far. There was also a large bamboo raft on the stream leading into the lake, we had seen photos of this type of raft with multiple folks sitting on the raft. In the Info Centre there were also advertising for staying and camping (fixed cabins) from only 1500 rupees per cabin per night ($30) basic but probably a lot of fun. There were a few other white folk around but by far the majority of the passengers were Indian - locals and folks on vacation. There were lots of families and the young girls came over and wanted to talk with us - we are certainly an attraction wherever we go and certainly stand out in a crowd.


The boats returned from the earlier trip and then we walked the 300 yards down to the water to board (guards checking that you had your ticket and a camera ticket). The boat we were on carries maybe 150 passengers on 2 levels, the seat number preassigned (we were upstairs) and you HAVE to wear your life jacket. The 90 minute ride was peaceful with cool breezes off the water (cool in comparison with the 100+F temperature anyway) with lots of bird life who love the dead trees standing in the water from when the area was dammed, and some animals - my favourite of course were the 2 small elephant families - 5 ellies in each. They are wild and we were a couple of hundred yards away on the boat but this would be the time of day for the ellies to come to the water to drink. The second family were playing at the water's edge - they trumpeted as they exited and then spent a long time throwing the red dirt over themselves with their trunks. We also saw deer, wild boar (quite a few in a group all lying down sleeping) and a large bison animal - I didn't get the local name. There were black rain clouds ahead and sure enough it came down in a torrent - at that point we were glad to be in the third row from the front and not the front since those folks got soaked!! It lasted 20 minutes or so then back to blue skies.


Back at the dock we disembarked and walked back to our vehicles for the drive back to GREENWOODS after a very busy 6 hours! In town there was a major festival underway either put on, or decorated by, the Horticultural Society. We could see masses and masses of brightly coloured flowers as we went by the entrance - but our evening was going to be busy. It would probably have been a 30 minute hike down to the event and a long 30 minute hike back up, but the music was pounding out until about 10pm that night and would no doubt have been fun to go and see. For us we enjoyed a quiet relax in the room until 730pm when there was a classical dance demonstration by a beautiful young lady in costume upstairs above the restaurant - she showed all the moves (which all mean something specific) and it was interesting to watch. We had thought about the cooking demonstration in the restaurant at 630pm but decided we'd put our feet up for 45 minutes instead!


The restaurant is open air next to the pool and gardens - such friendly professional staff who simply can't do enough for you and the food was so fresh, tasty and traditional Kerala. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner at a table for 2 overlooking the garden - not really hungry, and were soon crashed in a comfortable bed in our villa #401, ready to rest up for whatever tomorrow brings!



Sunday April 12, 2015 THEKKADDY to ALLEPPEY (145km / 4 hours) 
Today we drive to Alleppey, known as "Venice of the East", where we will board a houseboat to stay overnight and cruise through the large network of canals that meander through the town and surrounding villages. These backwaters of Kerala are a vital waterway for the transport of goods, people and their produce and often the only link between isolated villages and crowded towns. In August each year there is a Snake Boat Race in these canals which is a major event and attraction.



We started our morning in Kumily at the GREENWOODS Eco Resort, sitting in the open air dining room under large shady teakwood trees , freshly brewed coffee in hand and then imagine this choice for breakfast: chocolate pancakes (they grow cocoa and make chocolate here), banana fritters, made to order omelette, bran and corn flakes with hot and cold milk, mixed fruit & pineapple juices, toast, jams, marmalade, muffins, pastries, banana & chocolate cake, vegetable sandwich, chicken and cheese sausage, boiled eggs, honey porridge, hash browns, chipathi, vegetable curry, Idyappam, sambol (tomato with coconut milk), Idly (rice flour steamed cake), vada (mini veggie donuts), red chilli chutney, coconut chutney, tomato chutney, sambar, pineapple, melon, cucumber, tomato - and yes, fried scrambled or any other kind of egg that you wished - yes, lots of choice!


We were on our way by 830am when Selvam picked us up - he has been a driver for 15 years with Southern trails based in Madurai & Chennai. He confirmed what we had already heard, that drivers sleep in their car (unless they are driving a large bus with many passengers) since the Tour Company doesn't pay for a room for them. They earn about 8,000 rupees for a 30 day month (about $160 month) and Selvam says he's working for a good company. Selvam has 2 boys 10 and 12 years old and lives in Madurai. EDUCATION  90% of kids in India go to government funded schools which do not compare to the private schools where the other 10% go to, and the private schools focus on English which means these kids are way ahead for their jobs and futures - about 20,000 rupees per moth per child ($400USD) and that's not boarding school. There are ads everywhere advertising private schools from kindergarten to University and Colleges and taking enrolment.


What a drive - thousands of acres of tea, tea, tea, hills, clouds, blue skies, birds, purple morning glory flowers, roads like snakes up and down hills, adverts for Jungle Resorts, Spice Farms (no tours today since it's Sunday), Ayurveda Massage, Hotels, Restaurants, jungle trips, buses, trucks, rickshaw, bicycles, motorbikes, - one bus from Chennai with huge fresh flower garlands hanging all over the sides and back - apparently the passengers having driven 800 km from Chennai to go the special (Malai Sabarai) Festival on April 19th to the Temple - they have to walk barefoot for 50km from the road to where the Shiva Temple is located in the middle of the nature reserve, no cars are allowed on this rocky road. The Temple is open for 3 months November December January then opens only 1 day each month for the rest of the year, so it is a big festival when it opens. We saw a sign for the SALAH Room on the highway - the Prayer Room for the Hindi pointing the direction to the closest Shiva & Pavadu Temple - typically prayers are 9am and 6pm, so travellers can still pray while on the road by using this Salah room. We passed a cow market - completely empty but where the Tamil bring their beef in trucks to sell - our driver Selvam is vegetarian as are many, if not most, Hindus.


This was a stunning drive - up and down mountains on incredible narrow winding roads with all traffic freely crossing the line to shorten the corners! But for miles we could see beautiful tea plantations, and I mean beautiful - lush green with interspersed pine and teak trees - with pepper vines growing up the trees. The tea bushes (multiple varieties) grow for 20 years and then are cut down and new tea bushes planted - green tea being a favourite of many. Then there were the rubber plantations for mile after mile - the views were simply stunning and all the greens and mountain vistas so easy on the eyes in comparison with the city noise, people, traffic, horns, and advertising! There are amazing sign writers in India but the massive hand painted advertising - usually in sanskrit lettering - in bright yellows and reds and blacks - you can be driving past green fields and see 3 houses completely painted in yellow with red lettering advertising a silk company for example! The negative comment is that all these beautiful tea plantations have meant deforestation to a massive degree in India - so the wildlife has no home left as the wild country diminishes and of course when the rains and monsoons come the flooding and hills sliding away becomes common place.


We loved the drive, we went through a few towns but today is Sunday their relax day so many men were wearing their lungi - the waist dhoti typically in checks or patterns - remember that Lungis were not allowed in the Temple - we saw that in Madurai! (Lungi is in Malayayan for Kerala; or Kailai for Tamil; Thotai for Hindi; ) When I asked what the women wear on Sunday I was told it was not a saree, it was a nightie - I do believe that means a dress! So the Lungi & Nightie I think are like PJ's that you can wear on the street but not to the Temple.


As we drove we saw many churches, and reminded us that the population here in Kerala State is 70% Christian -but we still did see a couple of small Temples and a mosque. There were also many Christian schools (St Joseph & Carmel for example) Around 11am we were seeing huge modern homes, many very colourful, many elegant and very international in design. Apparently many generations of the same wealthy family share a home like this. Selvam mentioned that many folks move to Kerala for 10 or 15 years to make some money (from the wealthy population that live there) with the hope that can then return home to the smaller villages where they are originally from to live more comfortably. The traffic and towns became busier and apparently the traffic is very busy on the relax day of the week as everyone moves around to shop and visit - many stores closed all day, but lots open until noon then they close on Sunday afternoons.


We passed camels in a rice paddy - darker brown than we are used to and by now we had reached what is known as the Backwaters of Kerala. This is an area full of water that has been channelled and contained with walls and canals and life continues along the banks of this incredibly pretty area with easy access to fresh water, rice paddies and easy transportation system on the water. We saw a wedding on one side and driver SELVAM told me how weddings here getting out of hand just like the rest of the world! The groom has to pay for lunch for about 1,000 folks, although SELVA only had 500 to his wedding nearly 15 years ago! That cost him about one Lhak which is one thousand thousand rupees - about $2,000. I addition you have to buy the wife gold jewellry! The wife doesn't have to pay for anything. With 2 sons to be married sometime in the future I told him it's a shame he didn't have 2 daughters instead of two sons!


Sunday laundry was in progress in the canals with beating against the rocks of shirts and sarees - I was impressed with how many men were doing their own laundry. Folks were swimming in the water to refresh and bathe and simply have fun. We also saw a gathering for a death in the family - about 100 family & friends gathering to grieve together - now why is it that a wedding is 1,000 folks for a free lunch and only 100 for a burial? The man on the side of the road told me it was OK not to be sad because the man had died of old age. Many of the death procession came in a huge wooden row boat the ladies wearing all their brightly coloured sarees and others were walking across the bridge to join them - no dreary black for a funeral in India I can tell you.


We arrived at our destination in ALLEPPEY at 1130am and this is like the Shuswap of India - there are about 600 to 700 houseboats on the Backwaters of Kerala and ours was waiting for us. Fabulous to look at, long and double decker (most are just one level) with 3 double bedrooms and ensuite bathroom on the bottom level, along with a sitting room up front and the Captain sitting steering, and the kitchen at the back and the stairs going up to the top deck. The top deck has a sitting area at the front with cushions, and a dining area with table and chairs for meals. Both decks are covered but with open sides - the bedrooms have air conditioning when required and the crew switch on the generator for that. The roofs are covered in woven matting and look very unique. The cost very approximately $300 per couple per night including room and 3 meals, what a unique experience. We were soon on board - a crew member came to pick up our overnight bag and we left our larger suitcases with our drivers for the night, and we were soon on board and shown our rooms.

Within 10 minutes we had left the dock and were underway - it was fabulous and so relaxing, just the sound of the fairly quiet motor running and the birds and water lapping as our boat and the other boats around us travelled up the waterways. We really saw all the activities of daily life, swimming, washing, relaxing, playing games, fishing, even washing and scrubbing the family goat! It was very warm but there were very welcome breezes off the water and from our movement on the water. There were large wide flat wooden work boats being loaded and unloaded with large numbers of heavy sacks of rice. Along the sides of the waterway were lots of homes from the smallest and poorest to the largest and most expensive, we would spot an occasional restaurant and even an ice cream parlour! There were even river signs pointing out destinations and mileage to get there! I don't know how many miles of backwaters there must be but I suspect it might be in the thousands rather than the hundreds.


We ate a wonderful lunch at 1pm...... and around 345pm the motor noise changed and we came in to dock! This was a tiny little village on the banks of the waterway but there was a very large church which apparently is a major pilgrimage site KALLOORKADU ST MARY'S FOREN CHURCH CHAMPAKULAN (note the FOREN - do you think that means foreign?). Anyway more importantly we found 2 tiny 5 feet by 5 feet stores here that sold Schweppes tonic water and you have no idea how hard that has been to find! It cost 55 rupee ($1) and when we could get it in a hotel it was 3 times that price! And it was even cold out of a fridge right here on a dusty little street in the Backwaters of Keralan! We resisted the cotton tops at 350 to 450 rupees ($7 to $9) even though we were wearing soaking wet, and what felt like grubby, tshirts as we wandered the very hot little town that ran along the side of the waterway. We knew it would only take 10 minutes for the new one to feel and look just the same!


Back on board the crew untied the houseboat and away we went with Captain Sunnil at the helm - I have nicknamed him Captain Jack Sparrow Sunnil a la Johnny Depp - a cute little Indian who speaks no English except the few words like yes, no, and "haf an our". The two crew members also speak no English but cook a mean meal! For lunch it was rice, grilled fish, veggies, more veggies, (sauteed shredded carrot cabbage onion bean slivers and coconut with cumin, coriander, garlic, turmeric and red hot chilli peppers) and coconut okra curry sauce followed by incredibly sweet fresh slices of pineapple for dessert with warm water. When we came back from the village walk they brought us ice cold water (we had cold G & T) and fresh fried banana fritters - excellent!


We continued cruising the canals amazed at the houses which are water front and water back! Many are sitting on a thin slice of land between water both side - I suspect most of these stretches of land have been man made over the years. We continued our route ( a rectangle) making our way back to Alleppy where we boarded today at noon and will disembark tomorrow morning after breakfast around 9am. The sun started dropping lower in the sky and it was very peaceful watching the sights on the water and along the banks. A very relaxing way to spend a day or two - not the activity for any hyper active folks! Finally the sun dropped low enough and the skies clouded a little so that the temperatures dropped, then the breezes picked up and sure enough it looked as though rain was on its' way, but all we got were a few drops!


We pulled into the bank and tied up along with another houseboat from the same company. There were mostly just rice paddies in this area with a couple of homes across the other side of the water. There is obviously an arrangement with the one house owner where we tied up, or this company owns this house, since we plugged into the electric at the house (just two wires straight into the socket!, and then we had electricity - we were very glad of the air conditioning and fan since the cabins were really hot by now!


We sat on the cushions and watched the brilliantly green and blue coloured Kingfisher sitting on the electric cables and diving, successfully, into the water to catch several fish for his dinner. The sunset was a big red ball going down behind the rice paddies and before we knew it - dinner at 7pm upstairs: rice, veggies, potato dish, fried chicken nuggets (ok a version of small pieces of chicken in a spicy dry coating), and a deep fried chapatti of some sort with ice cold water. We fell into bed afterwards and read for just a short time before crashing for a good night's sleep on the peaceful Backwaters of Kerala.



Monday April 13, 2015 ALLEPPY to KOCHI (COCHIN) (57km / 2 hours) 
Today is the start of everyone's work week, and the plan is that around 9am we disembark the houseboat in Alleppy on the Backwaters of Kerala and drive a short way north to the vibrant old Portuguese colonial city of Cochin (or KOCHI) for a half day tour. Known as the gateway to KERALA, the ruler of Kochi allowed the Portuguese to construct a fort here, which was known as Fort Kochi and also as Fort Emmanuel. The Portuguese planned their livelihood around the church, here it was St Francis Church, the first church of the colonial era where Vasco-Da-Gama's body was buried before being taken to Portugal. Other places of interest: the Dutch Cemetery, the Santa Cruz Basilica, and Chinese Fishing Nets. We end the day and the Southern part of our India tour with a classic dance show this evening KATHAKALI.


I was awake at 3am and listened to "the quiet" - truthfully, listened to the air conditioning and fan until I switched them off and could hear the birds, the cocks crowing and "the quiet"! I could see flashes of white through the the drapes at 4:30 and opened the drapes to an amazing electric light show from Mother Nature - a long way off but at times the entire sky was lit up - watched it for close to an hour. The shower on the boat was delightful - a large monsoon head with lots of hot water. I went upstairs to get the bottled water from dinner last night but two of the crew were sleeping on the hard floor with a small blanket, so I crept downstairs and the one crew member was up and with a big smile, gave me a bottle of water for our teeth!


After sunrise we sat out in the front lounge in a comfortable chair and watched the river which was dead calm, come to life - with houseboats starting to move in the direction of the disembarkation point - I think there are 4 different spots where you can board and disembark the houseboats in Alleppey, and given that there are 600 to 700 houseboats it makes sense that there would be multiple spots to keep them!! Terry took photos of that beautiful Kingfisher that we were watching last night, while I continued with the Trip Diary. By the way, that Kingfisher is the model and name for the Kingfisher beer available here in India! Andrew called us for our breakfast of omelette, chipati, toast and pineapple jam with piping hot freshly brewed coffee at 8am. (Sunnil was our Captain and Sasi was our cook). Then it was time to cast off for us, and all the other houseboats in the area, to make the 30 minute run back to where we had boarded our Kerala Backwaters Private Limited houseboat just 20 hours earlier. It had been quite the experience, relaxing, enjoyable, and educational to see just how folks live in this very rural and water surrounded part of Kerala. Terry read in the local newspaper later that some parts of the Backwaters have been illegally reclaimed (hold back the water) and using old and current satellite google maps the authorities have been able to prove what has been going on!


Our drivers Selvan and Seji were waiting for us and 10 minutes after docking we were on the road to Cochin, the Gateway to Kerala. This is a city of about 5 million and it was frantically busy! I think the traffic was probably the craziest we have seen so far - in fact the next morning we read in the newspaper that on the day we arrived there was a bus on the way into Fort Cochin that ran into the back of a truck loaded with cement blocks - the driver was seriously hurt and 20 passengers hurt as well. The Backwaters of Kerala are here as well, and so there are lots of bridges to cross the many waterways.


It was 60km to Cochin (or ERNAKULAM) and pretty much a busy drive all the way from ALLEPPEY. As we neared Cochin we saw different things for sale at the side of the road -plastic beach balls and swimming rings for kids, hammocks, carpets, pillows and fireworks - looks like they love fireworks when they have their celebrations. Construction projects everywhere - I even saw a lady dressed in a saree down deep in a trench and digging! Terry was wanting to check the date and it was pretty funny when he picked up Selvan's newspaper and it was all written in sanskrit! Selvan laughed and laughed!


Today the 800 passenger Ocean Princess is in town - no doubt on her way repositioning from Asia through to the Mediterranean for the Summer cruises. As we entered the downtown area we saw the huge new Crowne Plaza Hotel on the river, the Meridian, the Ramada and the Radisson Blu. For two years now there has been work on a new metro (train) through the city and there is construction everywhere to accommodate this huge project - Selvan figures at least another 5 years before it is completed - believe me this construction causes a lot of the congestion today and from now until it is complete! Entering over the bridge into the city over a very large backwater, we saw North American chain hotels such as the huge brand new Crowne Plaza, Meridian, Ramada & Radisson Blu. Kerala State was formed in 1957 and has 14 districts apparently has highest literacy rate of all 29 States in India, and the lowest death rate of all the states in India. After India Independence in 1947, India was the first country in the world to accept Communism in a democratic way.


We arrived at our hotel DREAMS in Cochi at 10:30am, it is right on the Metro line construction project - a beautiful contemporary hotel with lots of white furnishings and paint. There is a beautiful roof top swimming pool on one side (high walls so no view) and bar with a view on the other side open from 3pm each day. There is also a fancy Chinese restaurant on the second floor - we heard during our trip that Indians love Chinese food. WIFI was 750 rupees $15 for 24 hours, or you could purchase at a much higher rate by the hour. Our room was quite large - we selected one (#1806) with twin beds for the larger space and extra window since the rooms with King beds were smaller and darker. Our room even has weigh scales - we didn't need to check our weight but we did check our larger duffel and small backpacks ready for the flight tomorrow to Delhi - maximum 15kg checked and 7kg carryon allowed.

To enter the hotel we went through security with scanned bags, then we had a couple of hours to freshen up. In the coffee shop we enjoyed a real treat - a wonderful caffee latte - 300 rupees for 2 lattes and complimentary small cookies - just like shortbread! The waitresses were really sweet young girls from Assam, North East India - Jasmine and Uma. They were hired as a group of 6 - their Dad 's wouldn't let them move to the big city in the South unless they all went together - meanwhile we read in the newspaper that this was one of the worst areas in India for female abuse, no wonder their parents wanted to get them out for a better opportunity. They live in hotel accommodations, take their meals there - work split shifts and during their daily break they love to go and watch movies! They get leave once each year when they go home and that takes them 4 days by bus each way!


We headed out at 1230pm for lunch and to see Cochi - we laughed at some signs we see along the way "Urologist and Transplant Surgeon" Terry was worried about what they might be transplanting and to where! Actually India has a huge Medical Tourism industry with very well trained and educated Doctors & Surgeons, and internationally folks come to India for procedures that are much cheaper than in their own countries like USA, Canada & Europe. Another sign "Trojan Plywood - Happiness for Life" Terry laughed and said he has never considered buying plywood a recipe for happiness.


We had an excellent lunch at the Fort Cochin Hotel close to the waterfront - the most white tourists we have seen were in this area along the water, along with many locals and domestic Indian visitors. We shared an excellent prawn mango curry with white rice, cashew nut nan bread and paratha - total 460 rupees $9. Other good hotels in Fort Cochi were the Benda Boatyard and the Old Fort - we think to stay in this area would be better - keep out of the traffic and lots of walking with markets, restaurants stores and bars.


After lunch we met our guide, SUSAN JOHN, for the afternoon wearing a bright yellow saree, spoke English well but we found she talked fast, didn't wait for everyone (there were only 4 of us!) to be next to her before she started her spiel and then wanted to rush through some of the sites we saw - then she wasted time at the end of the afternoon taking us to the Government Store and The Spice Market - women's Co-operative for shopping - which none of us wanted to do! Prince Phillip and Camelia had visited here in 2013.


We mentioned before how important spices are in Kerala - a huge industry and the Arabs used to have a monopoly on buying all the spices here and selling them to the Italians, who would then sell the spices on to others. But the Ottomans discovered a new route to Kerala to buy and sell the spices. Pepper used to be called Black Gold and would sell for 50 to 60 times the price of gold! Today it is so readily available and sells for just a couple of rupees.


Our sight seeing with Susan started at the St Francis CSI Church of South India built in 1503. Inside on the ceiling were many huge manual fans which were pulled by the Panka Walla's - panka means fan and Walla means worker - you may remember we had seen one over the bed back in Chettinad in South India last week. It was here where Saint John (doubting Thomas) converted to Christianity, these were called the Syrian Christians since he came from Syria.
Today there are services in English and Kerala on Sundays only, in the morning and afternoon. It is here that Vasca Da Gama was buried - later his body was removed and taken to Portugal to be reburied.

After St Francis we walked along the waterfront to see the massive Chinese Fishing nets (maybe 12 in all) set up along the banks of the ocean waterway and still in use today using the same method catching fish that the Chinese started here centuries ago. The fishing net is huge (maybe 50 feet by 50 feet) and is attached to huge poles in a wooden frame - at the back on land there are long ropes with heavy rocks tied in the ropes. Then there are rope pulleys. Several men (maybe 6) let the ropes raise which drops the huge net into the ocean to catch the fish swimming by. After a time, the men then haul on the ropes which pulls up the net hopefully with fish in the net - this is very hard work and you can see their muscles straining while they do this. Very interesting to watch.


By 315pm we were at the Jewish Centre known today as Jew Town. There used to be over 1,000 Jewish folk living here but today there are only 7 people remaining all in their 80's and 90's. After WWII and Indian Independence, the State of Israel was proclaimed and nearly all the Jewish moved to Israel in 1948 because it was their own country now, and they weren't sure how they would be treated by India after Independence in1949. There is an old Synagogue here built in 1568 (no photos allowed inside), with blue and white delft tiles on the floor, glass chandeliers from Murano Italy and today looking very worn around the edges with no one to look after it any longer. Due to the age of the remaining tiny congregation they seldom have a complete service every Friday and Saturday since they don't have a Rabi to lead the prayers. There are several small stores selling the usual goods here out of the old houses, and in addition they are selling antiques. It is illegal to take anything out of India that is 100+ years old, so the "antiques" that you see here are actually reproductions made to look old.


Next to Jew Town is the Dutch Palace, MATTANCHERRY Palace, which is now a museum was built in 1555 by the Dutch to appease bad feelings with the Raj (King) and was still used until the 1800's. White people came from Holland and Spain, black people were brought as slaves from Ethiopia. King Solomon came to Kerala on business - so there is lots of history and culture here. The ceiling in the Palace is made of Kerala teakwood, there is also rosewood, sandalwood and ebony from Kerala as well being the Land of spice. The population love Kerala State and call it "God's Own Country" - we have sure enjoyed our short time here. The Coronation Hall of the Maharaja is here with beautiful hand carved walls, his bedroom walls are painted with incredibly detailed scenes of the stories of their Gods still easily seen today, in oils, vegetable and mineral colours. In the dining room lots of brass and teak on the beautiful ceiling - all squares of teak with small and large circular decorations in brass.There were two palanquins for the King to be carried in with carved wooden and ivory handles, silver crests and silk furnishings - huge long handles which were carried by 8 staff (or slaves?) on each side. There were swords on display with solid gold and ivory handles given by the Prince of Wales to the Maharaja in 1875-76, along with spears and swords used by the Maharaja's soldiers during the 12th Century warfare called KALARIPPAYATTU.


Cricket used to be a Royal Sport (only Royals were allowed to play cricket). Another "interesting" fact!! In the 1800's women slaves were not allowed to cover their breasts and they were subject to a "breast tax" - the larger the breasts the higher the tax! Photos showed some pretty unhappy women with bare breasts. In one glass case there was a lady model wearing a cream blouse with no sleeves or shoulders (straight across the top of her breasts) with cream skirt with a gold trim - looking ultra modern and fashionable and this is from over 200 years ago! She was also wearing many gold bangles, a heavy gold necklace, rings and earrings. Kerala is famous for its' simple classic cream with gold trim 100% cotton sarees, cost 225 rupees about $5 for the 5.5 metre length. Sarees only came into being in the 1900's.

In HINDU men and women are considered equal (no-one mentioned a penis tax to me I must say) and Hindu is considered " a way of life' not a religion. Lord Shiva and Pavarti are considered as important as each other by Hindus.

Next Susan took us to both the Government store for shopping where they have everything you can imagine. all supposed to be the best quality and at fixed prices, no tax - followed by The Spice Store but none of us were into shopping. We drove over to the beach and watched the waves roll in from the Arabian Sea - a few folks braving the water to swim, lots of stands with toys, drinks, clothing along the front and many families strolling along in their colourful finest and enjoying the afternoon. As a tourist in India you learn what it's like to be a white tourist novelty and the Indians wanting to take photos of you and standing with you sometimes for a photo - happens almost every place that we have visited!

We were going to see the actors doing their makeup for the classical dance this evening - they do their makeup on stage from 5 to 6pm so until 530 we wandered along the waterfront with driver Selvan and watched all the activities.

We found an ATM with PLUS which meant our bank cards would work and managed to withdraw more rupees - it's amazing how the gratuities add up - all day long we are looking for rupees (10r for any toilet that has a lady looking after it and giving you one piece of paper, maximum 100 rupees for the group for lunch or dinner unless it is excellent then 200 rupees maximum, 30 to 300 rupees for camera fee to take photos, 20 rupees for leaving shoes outside temples, driver 500R per day, Guide 750 rupees per day - 50 rupees equal $1.) The funniest part was that Selvan knew we were looking for an ATM. As we walked along he kept pointing ahead and saying YATUUM - we kept asking another temple? We finally realized he was trying to say ATM and we all howled with laughter! At the ATM we ran into a GADVENTURES group with their guide trying unsuccessfully to get rupees out of the ATM.


We arrived at 530pm (Prince Phillip & Camillia were also here in 2013) at the KHATAKALI Classical Dance Theatre where there were 11 other visitors in a theatre that holds about 200 hundred. We watched two actors, one young man and one old man - painstakingly apply makeup to their faces - one completely green with red and the other natural colours with black under hugely expressive eyes. At 6pm the show started and it was a drummer and the young man - every drum sound stood for some emotion and the young man would radically change his face, eyes and body expression to show the emotion that the drummer was playing. At 630pm the show between the two men was acted with an interpretation given to us in English ahead of time by the stage manager. It was excellent and very dramatic!


Selvan was waiting for us at the end and we had an exciting drive home in the dark - busy traffic, buses with one headlight racing towards you that you thought were a bike and it was really a big bus! Black people wearing black clothes, bikes and rickshaws with no lights! 45 minutes later we were safely back at DREAMS Hotel! We went straight for dinner, a huge buffet, and there were only 4 men in the restaurant besides us. There was enough food for 100 guests! It was all excellent and we could hardly believe the quantity, quality and variety of food on the buffet! The staff want to prepare something special for you - a special Indian bread or Indian dish and they are so disappointed when they can't tempt you with anything! As usual we fell gratefully into bed after another amazing day in South India.



Tuesday April 14, 2015 FLY from KOCHI to DELHI in the North. 
Today we change locations and can plan to spend the afternoon independently (we actually arrived to our hotel at 10pm and went to bed after dinner at 11:30pm!!). Well it was time to ensure everything was clean, packed and ready for our tour of Northern India!! 2 days

in Delhi, 2 days Jaipur, 2 days in Ranthambhore and 1 day Accra before we head to Varanasi for the extension we added on to this South & North India Tour. The morning spent catching up on emails, and downloading and backing up photos. Breakfast was as impressive as dinner last night - wonderful staff, excellent latte coffees, and everything and more for breakfast - a huge International selection from pastries, cereals, chocolate pancakes and sugar donuts (looked yummy) to omelettes and toast to Indian specialties and breads - absolutely spoiled for choice - but we managed to contain ourselves but really did enjoy the fresh papaya and pineapple! Checkout at 11am and Selvan and Seji were waiting to take us all to the COCHI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT stopping on the way for lunch. Apparently when Seji came back to the DREAMS Hotel last evening around 5pm, some idiot motorbike driver ran into the side of his car - Seji was turning left with his ticker on and the motorbike rider was just trying to overtake on the inside (inside, outside - the motorbikes and scooters don't care as long as they can pass) so Seji has a dent and scratch on the side of the car which he has to fix himself, cost around 500 rupees, $10.


The drive was busy traffic but no issues. We passed the big modern LULU SHOPPING MALL with the MARRIOTT hotel right next door - a sign on the mall saying "Celebrating 2 years of Happiness". Stopped at the traffic lights, there was a young boy selling sun shades for the windows (a lightweight net that you stick on) - Selvan only wanted two in blue, the sale almost didn't happen since the seller wanted to sell 4! Selvan won and bought 2 for 50 rupees each including the window sticker - $1 each. I saw huge bill board advertising for JOLLY SILKS - modern fashion sarees which looked beautiful.


We pulled into Hotel MALABAR for lunch and shared a glass of water with chicken biryani (tasty rice)) and chipati. It came with spicy chutney and coconut milk sauce with veggies - we barely did justice to that but since we wouldn't be eating until arriving in Delhi close to 9pm it was a good idea to stop. In fact I suspect we won't be eating again today - with an 830pm Delhi arrival we'll be ready for bed by the time we get to our hotel!


For our next South India Tour Selvan suggested we add a few more days and go North from Kochi to OOTI in MUDUMALI, and to MYSORE to see the elephants and tigers in a Jeep Safari. Then on to BELORE, HASSAN, HALIPERU and BANGALORE. There is no doubt there is a lot of beautiful countryside to see in India so many trips would be required to see more of this country. We arrived at the COCHIN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (opened 3 years ago) around 130pm and said our farewells to Selvan and Seji, and huge Thank You's for the safe driving and conversations, with insight into India from their perspectives and their own life styles. Selvan now has a 9 hour drive back to his home in Madurai tonight, while Seji lives here in Kerala and had driven the 16 hours from Kerala to pick us up at the airport in Chennai 10 days ago. We gave them both our Thank You notes and well earned gratuities and then had our passports and tickets checked by armed guards to get into the COCHIN airport. Our checked bags were scanned before we checked in with INDIGO Airlines. In 2005 Indigo ordered 100 Airbus planes, in 2014 they received their 100th Airbus and ordered 250 more! In a country with 1.25 billion population things happen on a very small and massive scale! INDIGO keep costs down - 15kg maximum checked luggage and 7kg maximum hand luggage (we were within the limit). Every KG over limit costs 250 rupees ($5). Everything on the flight must be purchased including water, tea and coffee. This flight from Cochin to Delhi via Mumbai was around $200 Cad.


We checked in with INDIGO, our seats were already selected 3EF, and then went though security again into the waiting area with 4 departure gates. The furniture at the gates is all padded lounge chairs, as in the kind of lounge chair you would have in your own living room at home. Continuing with the Trip Diary entries, my time went by while Terry read the Newspapers (in English not sanskrit) and at 330pm we were boarding our flight. We departed right on time for the scheduled 4pm departure. A good flight with some forewarned about turbulence as we hit conflicting winds after about 30 minutes into the flight but it was soon over.

The flight path went North to Mumbai following the Western GHAT Mountain Range over beautiful scenery which looks so rural from 35,00 feet up! We were due to land in Mumbai at 540pm before continuing on to Delhi but due to weather conditions, we had to hold at 20,000 feet over the ocean for a delayed slot of 630pm! The Captain then told us we would have to divert to another airport since we were running out of fuel! Luckily he then got us an earlier slot and landed at 615pm in 30C temperatures - very smoggy and the city (used to be called Bombay) looked huge outside the cabin windows and very slummy looking with rows and rows of what looked like tin houses all built on top of each other for miles and miles. Lots of passengers disembarked - Security came on board and checked our boarding cards and also we had to verify what cabin baggage was ours. That bedtime is getting later and later! We stopped for 40 minutes, loaded some new passengers then left the gate at 7pm but due to heavy incoming and outbound traffic, we departed at 715pm for Delhi with a late arrival now expected for 915pm.




Tuesday April 14, 2015 - DELHI - PICCADILLY JANAKPURI HOTEL 2 nights superior room (BLD) 
Planned arrival time in Delhi 820pm. Transfer to the PICADILLY JANAKPURI hotel for 2 nights.

DELHI is the Capital city of India and a city which narrates the history of India. Delhi has been built and destroyed 7 times and has been the witness to all the events which is India's history. Seven times Delhi has experienced the pain of being built, then rebuilt and today as the Capital of India, it is the seat of Administration and monuments which tell the saga of a bygone era. These icons are testimony to the grandeur of the past and a huge tourist attraction today.

Deepak from GETS Holidays was waiting for us as we exited with our bags (always glad to see our luggage arrive!). Interestingly the Delhi Airport seemed calmer and more organised for traffic and people than when we arrived in Chennai 10 days ago!

After a short 30 minute drive with Deepak and his driver we were checking into the Piccadilly Janakpuri Hotel at 10:15pm (gratuities 500 rupee for Deepak and 200 rupee for the driver). The car had to go through security before we could enter the grounds (gated from the road) then we had to go through personal security and our bags scanned before we entered the Piccadilly Janakpuri hotel. We were very tired but managed a fast dinner at the twentynine 24 hour restaurant off the lobby, before crashing into bed. An amazing dinner buffet with excellent food with Indian and International dishes and huge variety. Cost about $30 for 1 glass each of Australian Jacob's Creek white wine and 1 shared bottle of water. As we always say every time you transfer locations it takes a lot of time! The lobby at the Piccaddily Hotel is grand and splendid, very impressive. The hallways to the rooms are rather dark and dreary - we were on the 7th floor #714. A large king bed, 2 easy chairs, a long working counter with electrical outlet, flat screen TV with 200+ channels (we found BBC and CNN in English), a walkin shower with glass walls so you could see out into the bedroom (lots of black mould on the floor by the glass wall between the shower and bedroom) and blinds inside the shower glass walls that could be raised
and lowered by electric switch. Complimentary coffee and tea in the room, safe, empty mini fridge, ironing board and iron - the first iron and board that we have had in any hotel.


Did I mention that as we went to bed the clock was getting close to midnight - outside our window we could hear noise - we looked outside and it was a celebration with drums! Reminded us of when we went to the Aston Bali back in 2000 - there was a Temple right next door and one night and day there were huge celebrations for 24 hours. Tonight we were lucky, we were tired enough to crash and only woke up once during the night!




Wednesday April 15, 2015 DELHI - PICCADILLY JANAKPURI HOTEL (BLD) 
The plan is to visit Old Delhi and the Red Fort (closed Mondays) built in1648 by Shah Jahan who also built the Taj Mahal. Enjoy a rickshaw ride at Chandni Chowk, and visit JAMA MASJID mosque, the largest mosque in India and RAJ GHAT, a memorial to the Father of the Nation, MAHATMA GANDHI - a simple black marble platform that marks the spot of his cremation on January 31, 1948 after he was assassinated by a disgruntled extremist.

Visit HYMAYUN's Tomb, a memorial of the Mughai Emperor Humayun built in 1562, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the first example of this type of Mughal architecture in India. Drive past India Gate built in 1931 as a memorial to the Indian Soldiers who died in World War I and the AFGHAN Wars - their names are inscribed on the walls of the India Gate. You then pass the official residence of the President of India - The President's House - also built in 1931and which was known as the Viceroy's House until 1950 when it served as the residence of the Governor-General of British India.


Well like most of us we had some idea as to what Delhi would be like, and we had heard from others their impressions of Delhi. We were lucky because it has rained a little over the last few days and I think that may have accounted for reasonably clear blue skies - our Guide today told us that today has been the first day of heat - it was 41C. Our driver AJIT SINGH arrived at 845am to pick us up in the air conditioned 12 passenger PASIO TRAVELLER van from GETS Hollidays. Ajit greeted us with Namaste - NAMASTE is the greeting any time of the day here, for morning, noon and night - with folded hands in front of the chest.


Bill from Halifax joined us this morning - he had arrived very early the previous day and actually spent yesterday on his own touring Delhi on and off the metro ( the Janakpuri Metro station is directly in front of the PICCADDILY JANAKPURI hotel), and also on a automated rickshaw. At 6am this morning arriving from Toronto was Charlie & Susan- their flights had in error been booked departing 1 day too late from Toronto so they were exhausted having only just arrived and were heading to bed and will unfortunately be missing today's touring of Delhi. By coincidence, they both were also originally from GUAYANA, just like the other lady in our group - all Indian heritage and looking very Indian.


We ate the buffet breakfast at twentynine restaurant. First I ordered my latte, then what a selection to choose from: mint,ginger,sainth,coriander, coconut,tomato - all chutneys, mixed pickles, aloo matar bhaji, rawa vada, sambhar cake, tea cake, banana cake, sugar donut, chocolate donut, raisin muffin, strawberry muffin, chocolate croissant, cinnamon danish, almond custard danish, tomato upma, beetroot idli, plain idli, dal paratha, mixed veg pakoda, pancakes, potato cutlet, grilled tomato, mexican kidney beans, porridge, akori chicken sausage, scrambled eggs, chilli chicken, stir fried rice, cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, cold meat cuts, cheese, white and brown bread for toasting, a variety of buns and yes, eggs to order!!


Our Licensed Guide's name for today is Sunni. and after driving about 40 minutes in very heavy traffic we picked Sunni up close to the Royal Hotel on Ashoka Rd - a young well dressed man in jeans and blue linen striped shirt in his 30's who went for an interview to become a Guide - every second year 30,000 to 40,000 apply to be a guide and after the interview 180 are selected, who then go through 6 months training and then a second interview. If they pass they get a license and are required to take a refresher course every 3 years before they get their license renewed. On the Education theme, Sunni told us that it is mandatory for children to go to school ages 3+ to Nursery or kindergarten, then 12 years through high school and senior secondary school and at age 18 to College - 3 years for a bachelor degree plus 2years for a Masters degree. Even though compulsory, many kids don't go to school and we saw lots of young kids on the street and amongst those selling a variety of goods at the traffic lights to the cars waiting for the lights to turn to green. And repeating what we heard in the South, those who can afford it send their kids to Private School - Sunni (well spoken and educated) is obviously doing well as a guide and his kids are in private school.


We noticed that on the streets that the majority of folks were wearing western style clothing, some sarees a few women but all the men were wearing pants and shirts. There were cows on the sidewalks and in the middle of the road, later in the day we even saw a couple of large black wild boars! There is a large navy and military presence (and facilities) in Delhi and we saw several military vehicles pass us by. The traffic was so busy at times that the motorbikes who are like ants around all 4 wheeled vehicles, actually drove up on the narrow dirt divider between the lanes and drove along that trying to get ahead! There was a Licensed Refrigerated Water trolley selling drinks on the side of the road, 6 teenage kids squashed into the back of a bicycle rickshaw built for 2 - there is a never ending parade of fascinating sights!


New Delhi was a city designed and built in 1911 for 27,000. Today the population is closer to 27 million living here! Delhi is India's second largest city with 20 million population (80% Hindu 10% Muslim) after Bombay/Mumbai with 23 million. The roads that we were driving through had lush green foliage on the sides and large gardens, with gardeners actively tending and pruning. We passed The President's Garden and the Mother Theresa Centre. There was a large medical area we drove through with hospitals, Swine Flu Centre, the Delhi Main Post Office, the Sacred Heart Cathedral - in the area of Ashoka Road, and a Sikh Temple as well. The health plan in India is subsidized but there are a lot of private hospitals as well. Old Delhi is a 17th Century old walled city built between 1639-1648. Today there are just a few feet remaining of the original wall, and only 4 of the 14 gates still remaining.


Many towns and cities in India end in PUR (JAIPUR) which is an originally Hindu City or ABAD (Islamabad) which is an originally Muslim city. Shah (means King) Jahan (means world) was considered "the richest man in the world". Shah Jahan built the walled city and lived in Accra, but moved to the city in the 14th Century to what is now known as Delhi, after his wife died and he couldn't bare to live looking at the memorial the Taj Mahal that he built for her, the Shah Jahan never lived in the Taj Mahal. He married her when he was 21 years old and his wife was 19 years old. They had 14 children, 8 died and 6 survived, 4 boys and 2 girls. The Shah's wife died during childbirth of the 14th child. She died June 17, 1621 at the battlefield (1250km from home) where she was with the Shah - the Shah always felt that he was successful when his wife was with him at the battlefield - this time she died in childbirth and he lost the battle. Before she died she asked the Shah to do something to show their love forever - and you have it right - he built the Taj Mahal which was completed in 1653. She was buried 3 times, the second time in the gardens of the Taj Mahal, and the 3rd time in the ? of the Taj Mahal. But as beautiful a memorial as it was, and still is, he was sadly reminded of her while living in Accra looking at the Taj Mahal - so he moved to Delhi. The youngest, and favourite, son of Shah Jahan - AURANGZEB, the son his wife died giving birth to, wanted power. AURANGZEB killed his 3 brothers and put his father Shah Jahan under house arrest in the Fort in 1658. Shah Jahan could only gaze on the Taj Mahal and died in 1666 after 8 years in prison. AURANGZEB was austere and unpopular and when he died in 1739 the Mughal dynasty began to weaken and disintegrate. The First War of Indian Independence was in 1857, but the British overpowered the uprising.


Our next stop was at the JAMA MASJID Mosque which was completed in 1656 after 6 years to build, and is the largest mosque in India. It took 5,000 people to build and cost 1 million rupees for labour , at 1 rupee per day per labourer. The materials were all taken from Agra to Jaipur and the cost of materials not included as they were from areas already owned by the Mughals. In the JAMA MASJID the arches all face West so that everyone knows which way to kneel since West is where MECCA is located when in India. There are huge steps going up to JAMA MASJID and there are white lines painted carefully on all the steps so that everyone knows where they should kneel (between the lines) so everyone has an adequate spot on the steps to pray. Inside the courtyard (this is almost an open air mosque) there are two stands at distances towards the back & within the courtyard so that when the Imman calls to prayer, not everyone would be able to see him since he would be inside the covered area where the Royal Family would pray. So his assistants would copy and repeat the calls on these two stands so that everyone in the courtyard would be able see what the motions would be. This courtyard can hold up to 25,00 people. It used to be that the call to prayer always came from the minaret in all mosques which is high up so that everyone can see & hear - in today's world there are loudspeakers which have replaced the need to call to prayer from the minaret. The JAMA MASJID is a beautiful building and courtyard - the Shah Jahan had learned from his experiences building the Taj Mahal and incorporated many designs. The Mughal arch was included within the JAMA MASJID - a sign of unity between the Hindis and Muslims.


Akabar The Great was the Great Grandfather of Shah Jahan. The Shah married a Hiindu, Turkish and Christian wife and he built the Hindu Temple inside the Red Muslim Fort as a sign of respect for Hindis. There are 6 white marble pillars inside the JAMA MASJID, one for every year of of construction. On the raised platform where the Royal Family would pray, there are hooks to hang huge pashmina curtains which would be wet down so that the breezes would be cooled down as they fanned through the mosque. The finest Pashmina is called shatoosh and comes from baby goats high in the mountains in the State of KASHMIR, and silk also comes from KASHMIR, cashmere wool comes from sheep. Shah Jahan brought artisans from Kashmir to utilise their skills in Delhi.


The JAMA MASJID mosque overlooks the city and is right next to the CHANDRI CHOWK market, also constructed by Shah Jahan, or the Silver Street, and known as the Thieves Market which was the heart of the city and major thoroughfare. So after returning our gowns (which covered our bare legs while in the Mosque, and putting our shoes back on which had been left outside), we headed down the steps and got into the bicycle driven rickshaw (2 into each rickshaw) driven by a young fit man! We had so much fun - the trip took about 45 minutes and went all through the tiny busy streets of the market which though very busy and congested to say the least, retains its' medieval charm- much of which is tiny booths or holes in the wall selling everything from wholesale products especially the incredibly beautiful sarees -- a good job or I would have bought several if I could have stopped! We passed fruit & veg markets, the butchers with sides of meat hanging cutting off the small amounts they wanted a little at a time. Rickshaws coming towards us, every type of dressmaking thread or trim that you could think of, small gold jewellers, incredibly beautiful papers and cards , pastries, candy - it was so much fun and our poor driver cycling hard and getting off to push us when the road was too uneven to cycle or the wheels stuck in pot holes in the road - it was fun. As driver Sunni told us - it will be a lifetime experience and it was! Then we drove along PRITHVIRAJ Rd a beautiful wide peaceful tree lined street with a police presence - some government and embassies here including the Consulate of the Bahamas, Turkish Ambassador and wealthy private homes. We passed several railway lines - the train is a major transport mode here and next week we shall take the overnight train to Varanasi. On a busy 6 lane road the Police had a couple of bikes pulled over and it is because the passengers on the pillion seat were not wearing a helmet and it is the law here that you must wear a helmet when on a bike.



Lunch around 1pm was at a very contemporary upscale restaurant called WAVES. It was very tasty Indian Mughal food and professionally served, but we actually preferred the food and service in the local restaurants (which were a fraction of the price) last week in South India. Terry did enjoy his first KINGFISHER beer here (300 rupees) which Terry only got 100 rupees back from a 500 rupee note! The Mughal have a 600 year history in Delhi.

After lunch we were off to the QUTUB Complex - this was built first as a Hindu Temple then when the Muslims invaded after a war with Afganhistan, it was destroyed and rebuilt into a Muslim Mosque using all the original materials - and all the Hindu statues and Gods were defaced. It is spectacular and contains this amazing 5 storied red sandstone tower (added by the Muslims) with rounded angular flutings which is covered in geometric designs and koranic verses. This was built as a Victory tower of the first Islamic dynasty by QUTBUDDIN to proclaim the victory of ISLAM in India and also for offering prayers. Iltutmish's tomb is also here and again, the inside walls are beautifully carved with geometric and calligraphic patterns all in the glorious red sandstone.


If you're starting to get overwhelmed by all the names, places and what happened when by whom to whom - so were we !! - but the buildings and history behind them all are fascinating and so beautiful to look at! We took lots of photos, here there were many tourists from India so lovely ladies in beautiful sarees, and some of them wanting to pose with us to get photos of themselves with us! What a chuckle! Our last stop for the day was just before 3pm when we headed to HYMAYUN's Mausoleum. Hymanhum was a Mughal Emperor and he died when he tripped on his gown coming down the steps from his library. His wife built the Mausoleum for him and it is a glorious building and today contains many tombs for wives, sons and daughters for many of the Royal Family whose real tombs are downstairs on the ground floor which there is no access allowed, - what you see as tombs on the main level are copies. The building is an octagonal shape to allow cool breezes to always blow through and to allow good lighting - all for the dead Hymanhum. The beautiful Mausoleum has 72 arches to represent the 72 Sufi Saints, and is surrounded by huge gardens and fountains. Known as the Garden Of Paradise - an objective for Islamists when they go meet Allah.

By now we were hot, sticky and tired and ready to head back to the Piccaddily Hotel for a shower, dinner and an early evening!

But first we made a stop at the house where Ghandi had been killed. This was a rather sad thing to do but it did let us pay respects to a wonderful man. Ghandi had been in the house of a friend whom he stayed with when in Delhi. Every afternoon at 5pm he would come outside to sit on a bench for a prayer meeting with his supporters. There had been 5 previous attempts on Ghandi's life. It was January 30, 1948 at 5pm when he walked outside and was shot three times point blank at the Prayer Meeting with a Beretta by extremist Nathuram Godse who felt that Ghandi was giving too much priority to Muslims and not enough to Hindus (related to India's relationship with Afghanistan). Godse was sentenced to death by hanging along with his major accomplice Naryan Apte, others received various
sentences. Some accounts have Ghandi crying "Hey Rama" - "Oh God" after he was shot, he died 2 hours later.


Today this a large peaceful garden with concrete steps in the shape of the flat sandals that Ghandi always wore - following his last walk from his room in the house to where he was shot. The bench that he always sat on is still there. Many of Gandhi's very thoughtful & considered sayings are on placards along the walk for us to reflect on toady, everyone still holds true - a beautiful and emotional walk for all of us in today's age.
"I know the path, it is straight and narrow, it is like the edge of a sword. I rejoice to walk on it"
"I will not like to live in this world if it is not to be one"
"I am praying for the light that will dispel the darkness. Let those who have living faith in non-violence join me in the prayer"
"for my material needs my village is the world, but for my spiritual needs the whole world is my village".


With the Great Man's words in our heads, and his last steps in our memories and thoughts - we continued the drive back to the hotel first passing the huge round building for the Houses of Parliament next to the massive Presidential Palace. Then the dramatic India Gate memorial (think of Arc de Triumph) inscribed with the names of all India soldiers killed in World War I and the Afghan Wars -0 the grounds here were covered in folks walking and enjoying the late afternoon stroll. By 8pm we were eating dinner in twentynine after a very full day and welcome shower and change! The Operations Manager from GETS Hollidays came to talk to us and ensure all was going well. He didn't share dinner with us, he said there is no way they eat dinner here before 930pm! By then we were back in the room and relaxing looking forward to another day tomorrow! We will be driving about 6 hours South Southwest to The Pink City of Jaipor! So at least our overloaded brains might get a short break while the driver gets us there safely!





Thursday April 16, 2015 DELHI - JAIPUR - RAMADA HOTEL 2 nights deluxe room (BLD) (265km / 5 to 6 hours) 
OK our plan today is to drive South Southwest (safely!) to JAIPUR and check into the Ramada Hotel. JAIPUR is known as the PINK CITY with a population today of 3.1 million, and Jaipur was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber, after whom the city is named.


Awake at 6am, with our first responsibility to catch up on emails before packing our few items for the long drive today. Breakfast at twentynine 24 hour restaurant off the main lobby - a huge buffet as I mentioned yesterday morning, but we ate lightly although I did enjoy my caffe latte! Quite a few tourists in the restaurant this morning, English speaking as if from Canada and USA, but Indian appearance. It so happens that India's Prime Minister MODI is currently in Vancouver today (the first time an Indian Prime Minister has visited Canada in 42 years) and is apparently being treated like a Rock Star - all of the Canadian Indians are so happy to see him!


Our driver on our North India tour is AJIT SINGH from GETS Holidays - based here in Delhi and associated with ONKAR Travels out of Toronto. Ajit arrived just before 9am and we were packed and on the road - all suitcases contained in the sealed and locked back compartment of the 15 passenger TRAVELLER van. There are now 7 of us travelling with the arrival of a Halifax man, and a couple of Indian descent from Toronto.


The roads were busy with a huge number of motor bike drivers, automated rickshaws, buses and cars. Traffic in Delhi is a problem with very long travel times during the morning and afternoon rush hours (and during the rest of the day it's just very busy!). Cows on the highways that everyone drives around, I feel so sorry for them - I think their lot in life is not fun even though they are fatter than many countries we have been to, they feed of rubbish and are also fed by folks in the areas where they wander. It was 945am when we passed the Radisson Blu - thank goodness we voted against joining the Operations Manager from GETS at the Radisson last night - it would have been a very late night for us by the time we got back to the Piccaddily Hotel where we were staying!


Five minutes later the road widened out to about 16 lanes - one way!! It was amazing to see the local bus stop and let off the passengers in the middle of one section (concrete divider ) then the passengers were on their own to cross the next twelve lanes to get to the side of the highway! Shortly after we were back to 6 lanes in one direction. 10am stopped in slow traffic - 213km to JAIPUR. 1015am and the traffic just started to move fast - there are massive construction projects all around - lots and lots of high rises all being built and this is 75 minutes from the Piccaddily Hotel - well outside of Delhi. By 1030am the geology was starting to change - JAIPUR is on the edge of the desert and everything was looking much drier with more rock and sandstone around, and no high rises or buildings in sight.


The drive continued with lots of traffic, large herds of cows with long horns being driven on the side of the highway by white robed and hatted herdsmen. Huge amounts of heavy trucks, pastureland on the sides and workers in the fields. Either very dusty from the dry ground or pollution - or maybe a little of both! We stopped for an early lunch 1145 at a very average road side restaurant - a tasty vegetarian meal with rice, dal, veggies, butter & plain nan bread. They had a store but everything was way overpriced. We were soon back on the road and the highway became really busy with a huge number of big trucks going both directions and also parked back to front along the highway in places. It is time for the wheat crop and lots of wheat being loaded into sacks, and the sacks on trucks on the highway, also the straw for the animals. We saw monkeys all around a fruit stall by the side of the road, a park or reserve of some sort with very large deer - at least the size of elk that we have at home in Canada.


We saw quite a large number of camels - each one pulling a cart typically with the owner wearing a long white robe and fabric wrapped around his head with the wizened old faces peering at us or his camel. There were hills ahead and to the north of us - we are pretty well travelling South West from Delhi to Jaipur - the Pink City. Around 2pm we passed major road work in progress with massive road equipment building what appears to be a new highway. Again I saw women in colourful saris working on the road - sweeping and doing hard labour with pick axes. This truly amazes me how they are dressed when they're working as manual labourers.


We arrived at 3pm and were welcomed with a cold glass of coke, and soon settled into our Ramada room #321. A lovely clean room with King Bed, lots of office work surface, easy chair and ottoman, shower in tub, mini bar (empty) , bedside tables and lights, flat screen TV. The hotel has a ground floor buffet restaurant for breakfast and dinner on the ground floor off the main lobby, and a swimming pool on the roof with great views of the city and the Aravalli mountain ranges with several comfortable sun cots on the top 7th floor. We took a very quick walk behind the hotel where we located the beer and wine store! We bought a bottle of Indian Blue Riband gin for 575 rupees about $12 - twice as much as we paid in Puducherry where we were told repeatedly how much lower the taxes were! Our tonic water cans from the Ramada for the mini bar is theoretically only 60 rupees a can here versus the 200 rupees they were asking at the rip off store where we ate lunch today!